Water lines & repiping
The pipe that brings water into your house is yours, not the utility's. So is the valve that shuts it off — and in a lot of older homes, nobody has turned it in twenty years.
- Low pressure throughout the house
- Banging pipes or a toilet that refills on its own
- Rusty water from the cold tap
- Gray plastic pipe stamped “PB” (polybutylene)
How we handle it
Step 1
Shutoffs & PRVs
Quarter-turn main shutoffs you can close in an emergency, and pressure-reducing valves that keep street pressure from wearing out everything downstream.
Step 2
Service lines
Replacement from the curb stop to the house, trenchless where the soil allows. We'll check whether yours is lead first — it may qualify for free replacement.
Step 3
Repiping
Galvanized steel (common before 1960) and polybutylene (1978–1995) replaced with PEX, room by room, with drywall patched before we leave.
Denver Water replaces lead service lines at no direct cost
Denver Water estimates tens of thousands of older homes — mostly built before 1951 — may still have lead service lines. Its Lead Reduction Program replaces them with copper at no direct cost to the homeowner. Check your address on Denver Water's map before paying anyone, us included, to replace a lead line.
See whose pipe is whoseTypical prices
- Replace pressure-reducing valve (PRV)$450–$850
- Replace main shutoff valve$395–$850
- Replace water service line (curb stop to house)$4,500–$9,500
- Whole-house repipe (PEX)$6,500–$14,000
Typical ranges. Your price is confirmed on site before work starts. Full price book
Straight answers
- Where's my main shutoff?
- Usually where the water line comes through the basement or crawlspace wall on the street side of the house. Some homes also have a curb stop in the meter pit near the sidewalk — that one needs a key.
- What pressure should my house be at?
- Most fixtures are happiest between 50 and 70 psi. Above 80 psi, code calls for a pressure-reducing valve.